Akagera: Closing time

Well we're nearing the end and it's been getting better and better. Aside from the fact I tried to do laundry used to much soap, attracted ants and I'm pretty sure removed a layer of skin from my hands with the amount of concentrated laundry soap I used.

We've now started to sing lion king songs, in particular "A whim away, A whim away" it's really the only way to start of the day right in africa after you've seen wart hogs run across your bus. (Still not sure how at this point the bus has a) survived and b) not run out of gas.) I'm also convinced at this point our bus driver hates us.  Up until this point I've been music less and let me tell you, you put on some "Send me on my way" while looking out into the savannah. Nothing is better. I don't know what I was thinking starting my days any other way. The research is definitely progression on agrees ion. and my team kicks ass (aka "The Leading Ladies") Our chant you ask? "Who wears the pants? The leading ladies" we hope to do our presentation in our Rwandan pants. Are we asking too much? Maybe.

Towards the end of the trip while in the classroom the park manager came in and told us about a crowned crane that had been hit by a car and left in the road with a broken leg. He was hoping Dieter could come look at it and fix it. I was blown away with everyone's brilliant ideas of how to help the poor beautiful creature. It was hard to see such a magnificent creature in so much pain and so helpless. He may eventually have to be taken out of his misery if he doesn't heal. but for now last we heard he was still alive, eating and drinking. While helping the crane we watched a small child named Luca and I swear to you for 30 minutes that child didn't crack a smile, and smirk anything. He would just stare at you, and suck your soul out a little at a time. I hope he gets happier as well. 

We end our trip with a beautiful boat ride by Kenny, the "snake guy" at Akagera. To say the least the boat ride was pretty awesome. We saw a group of 12 hippos three of them which chased our boat. 

Marissa and I, with Fidele grooving in the back.

Baby Croc

Hard to see but the ears of 12 hippos

The whole ride was incredible we saw way more than we hoped for and it was amazing. But in all honesty lack of shower, running water, and bed is starting to get to me just a bit.  I would weirdly be okay if I didn't have to pee in a hole in the ground, and fight off wild baboons to survive. Crazy I know, I know. We said goodbye to the wildlife, the landscape and Wilber and Jess and made our way back to Kigali until our next adventure.

The fambam

Photo credit: Kristina Savage

The love of my life.

Last observations

Akagera: Relaxing time and Game Drive

So this part didn't necessarily happen the same day? But hey, I figure theme wise they go together. So we went off on a vervet search and in that search we got to toward the hotel part of Akagera.. And let me tell you. We got the short end of the stick.

On our way we took some great ridiculous photos on our search, and on the way found some giant hippo bones. I have been having up until this point extreme, extreme fatigue an upset stomach and I finally figured out that my probiotics where made out of wheat. Who woulda thunk it. I sure as hell didn't.  

Photo Credit: Kristina Savage

So we make our way to the game drive, spotting zebras, buffalo and a few other creatures along the way. I felt like a tourist and at first it bothered me, but then I thought "Eh why the hell not" and I went a little crazy with the camera. Sadly this is the only clear one. Something about driving and pictures just doesn't work.

So the pool, aka our shower. We show up at the hotel, jump in the pool and when I say cold water. I mean, I jumped in swore under water and felt my limps go numb as I struggled to swim to the edge. I have yet to face any warm water here in Africa. It was fun though and so nice to be clean. I'm pretty sure when we left the pool had a slight reddish tint. 

We decided what better way to celebrate being clean with a fruity drink? None, the answer is none. Our mistake.. They tried charging us 25 dollars a drink AFTER they gave us the drink claiming they put in four shots a drink. Let me tell you the glass couldn't even hold that many shots, their was barely alcohol and I didn't even have a buzz. After about 30 minutes of arguing and talking to the manager we came to some agreement. But I will never get over I paid 4000 franks for juice, yes just the juice part of the drink.  

In the meantime we head back and are clean. Finally clean. 

Akagera: Part 3

So midway through the trip, the bees got a little bit more ridiculous. I had to figure out some tricky maneuvers to escape them. Mainly consisting of twirls and eventually smoking them out with the fire pit. Papaya hands down has been my go to fruit for breakfast, it is just so damn good. But the bees think so too. Not so good.

Today was a pretty incredible day. We got to see "Jess" she's a small little vervet monkey who on the last field school had a rotting arm and was forced to have it amputated by one of our professors. We went out searching through baboons and noticed a small little vervet perched alone on a building. Someone with binoculars glued to their face, point out her missing arm and the bus screeches to a halt as Professor Dieter gets out of the bus. Watching Jess recognize him was amazing. It truly was an intimate moment to witness.

 The next day after coming back we reliezed that baboons that Jess had been camping out with had attacked her. There is a problem where a lot of food is tossed out and Jess being as cute as she is gets the first bit from the humans which causes jealousy from the baboons. Which does not equate a good ending for Jess.

Jess's wounded eye

Jess is trying so hard to be integrated into a vervet group, and I am so hopeful for her recovery and integration. She truly is a special little soul.

Jess watching to boat tours.

Jess sitting on her "Dad's bike while he gives boat tours"

Dragon Tamer style

It's also really getting so fascinating really starting to recognize different baboon groups and individual baboons. We're even starting to give names. One group in particular have been given the name the "Broseph Saga" which is exactly what you would expect it to be. An alpha being a bro and ladies flocking over him and there being drama. But what really I've fallen in love with are baby baboon. They melt my heart. The infants tend to attach to their mothers in two ways. Horse back riding style or piggy back and occasionally under their stomach. 

Look it in the eye and tell me you don't love it.

The older they get the fuzzier they are.

On our way back from the tent we have a "friendly" surprise. Wilber a large male from last year has now decided he wants our food. Never a good decision… He's a crafty guy though. He wound up snagging a few things before being chased off. But on the dot every day he would stake out our camp..

The entire time we went to observe Mutware would also usually make an appearance. Or you would hear the towns people whisper "Mutware" and that would be the only part you could understand.

Akagera: When Baboons Attack

It’s the last official night here and while we’ve made the most progress on our project. Today has not been my favorite. Watching the primates survive and cohabit with humans is to say the least horrendous 100% of the group of baboons survive off of trash. Literally licking rotted can, plastic bottles you name it. But worst of all 90% of those baboon are mutilated. Not just scratched up, a wound from fighting here or there, but mutilated. Limbs missing, nerve damage from electric wire, missing eyes, limps in the process of loosing because of snares. It is horrifying. It’s one thing to see wounded animals and understand it’s just how survival works. But to watch these magnificent creatures hobble with a half connected hand through heaps of trash trying to survive is awful. I cannot stress that awfulness enough.

On a lighter note one of the females with a missing arm we’ve named Peda, because well she has learned to walk bipedally. Litterally runs on her back legs, while caring her infant. She is quickly my hero of the day. It’s so human like it’s scary. One of the big guys here who is missing a hand as well, also has nerve damage from an electric shock so his lip hangs and he has a slight drooling problem. But let me tell you, he is still cocky spit and all. Because they’re so used to humans he’s not scared at all. And this leads us to our next segment. “When Baboons Attack”

I want to prelude this with the fact that, at the end of this I have never laughed so hard on this trip until this moment. Scene set up: We’re all waiting in the bus, exhausted, cranky in fact, the sun is blazing the windows open. Out walks a small baboon, female, who keeps making eye contact (aggressive/dominant thing). I start to notice she’s looking at the bus, looking at the windows and starting to approach. I instantly srtart making eye contact. Attempting to threaten her, let me tell you. My stare is not very threatening-to her at least. She makes a running leap and is now in our inclosed bus. It is sheer pandemonium. Screaming, running.. I instantly go into fetal position and thoughts of our entire bus being mutilated by a crazy scared baboon flash through my mind repeatedly. Finally the chaos, at least the shrill shrieks subsisded so either I was the only survivor or she left. I was hoping the latter. I was luckly correct. I looked out the window and the female is running away a bag of cliff bars in her mouth. Smart, smart primate-let me tell you.

So we start thinking “Oh man she’s gonna get beat up for that bag!” and for a brief moment are sad, until those thoughts are extinguished as we realize instead of being selfish she’s told the rest of the baboons including the alpha male “we have food”. So here we have a troop of 5 or so large baboons, spit face at the charge, approaching the bus. Panic again.

We all desperately try to close the windows, but most are jammed. They keep approaching, at this point I’m a little glad their not all healthy, and that the missing limbs may have us at an advantage. Luckily the windows are shut in time, but when I say “in time” I mean like 5 seconds away from pure chaos and a primate vs. human show down.  Instead these innocent Asian tourist unaware of the situation at hand climb into their car..doors open. Their mistake. In jumps the gaint male, who then doesn’t run away but just sits in the back of the seat like he’s requiring a ride. The Asian tourists, don’t react until the park manager yells “Get out of your car!!”, don’t know if they understood but one ran way screaming when he looked in the back seat. The large male runs out with a box, thinking it’s food but winds up just destroying the poor mans cell phone (which was nestled in a box). The male tossed is aside, while slumped back. He was not a happy camper. My favorite part was Caitlin the assistant on the trip immediately goes "Did someone shit.. Did someone just shit themselves on the bus?" I lost it, I could not hold in the laughter at all. I and everyone in the back smelled nothing. But it was hysterical.
We than began to talk about a Lord of the Flies Scenerio, I got to stay alive because I can drive stick- who knew how handy that talent is. 

Just for a reference on size compared to humans and how terrifying baboon are please feel free to take a look at the photos below. 

Mutware

As the days progress it's getting easier to wake up before the sun. I have been getting better sleep here now that Ralph is out of the picture (thank god). Most mornings are relatively the same, some mornings I struggle with the gluten free thing, thank god for protein bars. Today we saw Mutware a beautiful Elephant. Twenty years ago during the genocide his caretaker was forced to leave, and hasn't come back. Mutware wanders though the village, not able to fit in with the other elephants at Akagera and is just angry. He's rammed two cars into the lake.

At first seeing him it was amazing! But hearing his story and watching him-he's suffering. He's had his life attempted multiple times, bullet wound scars over his body and ears and he spends most of the time by the door to where his owner used to live by the fishing village. Sadly the man can't come back anymore, but he wrote a story about his relationship with the elephant. He's a difficult animal to keep around, they asked the locals if they wanted him gone and to take him to a sanctuary or to keep him there (where he does run a muck). They wanted him to stay.

We also later in few days realized, showering just wasn't a thing. It was either use the shower tent which we only to be used at night with cold water. And I just simply prefer my filth to a cold shower with leopards. I also got a chance to talk to the Stekli about possible careers working with primates in the states, which was pretty eye opening. I'm gonna be starting some research on that. 

Akagera: Part 1

So like I thought, our location was stunning. Beyond stunning really. I took a little video, but that doesn't even do it justice. We wake up as the sun begins to rise about 5:30am every morning to be on

the bus to go observe that baboons at 7am. Our cook to say the least out did himself, I walk over to try to snag some coffee and see the beautiful fruit arrangement he made.

We gobbled it up until the bee swarms arrive, and when I say warm I mean, I must have accidentally madeout with a bee at least 5 times in the span of 3 minutes. Wierdly bees here are nice, as in they don't sting or at least I was told (but it stayed true the whole week there).

So within the first bit of time, I come across the first bit of wildlife. A weird little black bird, that sounded; and no exaggeration like a dying cat. So I stalked after it and to say the least got a tiny obsessed (in my defense he was awesome, when the light hit him. He turned a beautiful iridescent color. So after about 40 minutes of this Fidele, our tracker/guide shakes his head and hands me his book of birds and walks away.

So I flipped through the book and determined it has to be a "Drongo" I excitedly run up to Fidele and point to the bird. He smiles big and says, "Neygo" which means yes it Kinyarwandan. It felt like christmas.

So while we're going about our morning, I want to introduce us to a wonderful character. We call him "Naked Neighbor". He's this strange man, who has long stringy hair down to his but and walks around in nothing but a surong and not like a long one, a miniskirt size and looks like he hasn't showered in weeks. He says no words, but I've decided he's feral. And when he bends over, nothing is hidden. Nothing.. As strange of a character as he is there is some odd comfort in Naked Neighbor.

Kayla Ready for day 1

So we start learning about the do's and don'ts, things to look out for while with the baboons and other wildlife, mainly tics. Now, I never get freaked out much by things but the warnings of tics just freaked me out. Professor Netzin of course also has to tell us all about her tic horror story. So let me just divulge this lovely tail with you.

So one day Netzin is just minding her own business. She starts to get this weird cough, you know, no big deal. Except it is. One day, she hacks out a giant black ball. Now you must be thinking "Oh it was a dirt ball, or something in her lungs." No folks, no. It was a giant tic that had attached itself to the inside of her throat and was so fat with blood that it looked like a ball. Not cool.

So for the next week I have a deathly fear of any and all bugs and/or itches. Weirdly one night I woke up with an painful feeling in my throat, swallowed and felt something go down. I ate something.. And by something. I mean there literally could have been anything, it's Africa.

So we go an observe the baboons, and I'm not gonna lie it was pretty awesome.

Also on a completely unrelated note. I found and fell in love with mini bananas.